Wednesday, 27 April 2011

Lugnaquilla

Distance   Approximately 12km
Terrain     Mainly grassy hills with a large amount of rocks spread throughout
Ascent     Approximately 725m
Height      925m (3035 ft)
Summary  A tough, predominantly uphill walk to the summit. Weather can be completely different at
                 the summit than at ground level


We have wanted to do lugnaquilla for a while and eventually decided on Good Friday to attempt the hike. Lugnaquilla is the 13th highest mountain in Ireland and is the highest mountain on the island outside of county Kerry. When a few friends heard we were doing it, the asked to join us. Recently we have been hiking on our own so it was nice to have some company. I had read many reports about lugnaquilla and how unpredictable the weather can be at the summit. This made me nervous as did the reports of mountain rescue call outs. We were very clear that if the weather was not good or if it turned on our ascent, there was no option but to abandon.

So the first job was to decide what route to take. We had read that there are about 13 different routes of varying difficulties and grades to the summit. We agreed on a route up Camara Hill which the reports had outlined as the most straight forward route to the summit. This route leads you along the border of the Glen of Imaal,an army artillery firing range so it is vital that you ring ahead to make sure that no firing is taking place on the day of your hike. That confirmed, we were set to go. We all met at 8.30am on the sunny morning of Good Friday and made our way to Fentons pub where the hike begins. To get there, you head from Dublin along the N81 towards Baltinglass and take a left turn at a crossroads signposted Glen of Imaal. Around 7km down this road,
you reach Fentons pub where parking is available.

After arriving we went into the army office next door and got our free map of the mountain and its summit routes. With this in hand, we took off. It was evident within a couple of minutes that the group was not going to stay together for the duration of the hike as some took off faster than others. I take things at my own pace. The prize for me is not being first but to achieve what I have set out to do. Along these lines, I took the hike at a slow and steady pace as did a couple of the group. Right, so now to the real stuff. How difficult is the climb? Have no doubts; This is a difficult climb. By far the most difficult that I have done. The hills are steep and rocky. As soon as you reach the top of one, you walk for a small period of time on the flat and then start up another one.


I had my new walking poles with me (I remembered them this time) and they proved invaluable. Because of the rocks, there is a lot of stepping up and the poles helped with this. They took the pressure off my knees and helped with pushing myself upwards and forward. The worst part of the ascent is at the start so you don't have time to warm up. It is very steep and goes on for some time. After this the climbs are more like rolling hills with shorter distances to climb. There is a small river/ stream that you have to navigate across which wasn't a problem on a sunny day. I'm not sure if it would swell with rain. And then the last push comes. It's steep and practically all rock. Because it's not as long as the first steep hill, it seems easier, although it is just as steep. Just watch your step. Without proper hiking boots, it would be very easy to twist or break an ankle.

Once you conquer this final push, you cross a plateau until you reach the cairn at the summit. Myself and Niamh reached this about ten minutes after the majority of the rest of the group. We sat and had a sandwich or two and quickly began the descent. Unfortunately for us, the weather at the summit was not good so we didn't want to hang around. It was raining, blowing a gale and extremely cold (icy cold). Giving that it was about 17 degrees back at the car, I can't imagine what the summit would be like in winter. Not sure if I want to find out. The descent was just as difficult in places as the ascent. It was very steep and unforgiving on ankles and knees.

By the time we reached the car, I could really feel the days hike in my legs. In total the hike took me 4hrs 5mins (2hrs 20 mins ascent, 1hr 45 mins descent). Johnny did it about 10 minutes faster. So what advice can I give about Lugnaquilla. If you are not used to hiking or don't have hiking boots or the weather is bad - Don't do it. If you you are used to hiking, have hiking boots and the weather is good - Definitely do it. You will really feel like you have achieved something. One word of warning. The trail is not a marked trail and although it is very easy to ascertain the route to the summit in clear weather, it could prove very easy to walk off route in bad or foggy weather.


Walking off route can mean walking off a cliff edge so turn back if the weather deteriorates. I'm not sure what the other routes are like but I do recommend the Camara Hill route for your first time as you can see the route the whole way to the summit. Myself and Johnny thoroughly enjoyed the day, as did the rest of the group and I can guarantee that this won't be the last time we will be standing on the summit of Lugnaquilla. However we may try some of the other routes to get there.




Sunday, 17 April 2011

Navigation Skills Hike - Meeting A Legend


AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. So we turned up to do a navigation skills hike this morning as part of 53degrees north (Outdoor shop) walking festival only to meet Sir Chris Bonnington, an internationally famous mountaineer, recognised by the Queen for his contribution to mountaineering and more importantly to me, has summited Mount Everest. I was so nervous speaking to him and told him about our trek. He told me that we were going at the perfect time of year to get clear views of the summit and most importantly wished us luck. That's an omen. We will make it to Base Camp. I know it.



So getting back to the navigation skills. We paid €5 each for the 2 hour lesson. For this we were given an ordinance survey map and compass each (worth about €18 in total). We were taught map reading skills and how to determine direction by using the compass and map. We learned the 4 D's; Direction, Distance, Description and Deadline.




We used these skills to hike to the top of Cairn mountain. This was only a short hike but we took it slow in a group to learn how to use the map and compass. There was two guides to hand to help with any questions or difficulties with the compass.



Once we reached the top we had a brief stop and then proceeded back down to the car park. The hike was arranged as part of a walking festival by 53 Degree North and was really enjoyable and educational. Although we only touched on the basics, I already would feel more comfortable reading a map. Well worth the €5 and I have a new map and compass !!!!
















The Wicklow Way - Glenmalure to Iron Bridge (Stage 5)

Distance  14km
Terrain     Forest Roads, rough tracks and boggy paths. Virtually no road walking.
Summary  Shorter distance than previous stages but very hilly so will take some time to complete


As usual we brought two cars and left one at each end of the walk. Iron bridge is literally a bridge so is not marked on any maps. To get there you drive to Aughrim, and turn left, once you cross the bridge that brings you in to Aughrim. You follow this road for about 9km's keeping right when the road branches off and park at the entrance to a woods where you see the Wicklow Way way markers. It's easy to miss, so keep an eye out. The walk begins in the gorgeous setting of Glenmalure where we finished the last walk. A couple of minutes into the walk, you pass ruins of an old British army barracks. Unfortunately it is closed off so you can't get near it.


Nearly immediately after this, we crossed a small river (where a guy was washing his feet) and reached the official Wicklow Way halfway point. It's strange because the pillar states that we have walked 63.5km's but the book says that although the pillar states 63.5km's, we have actually walked more. Why don't they just put the correct distance on it then? It doesn't make sense to me. Either way, we have walked more as we did one of the routes there and back, if you remember. After this pillar we enter the woods, where we stay for most of the remainder of the walk. Again the book uses language that doesn't actually prepare you for what's in store. The book tells us that we must climb steadily but fails to mention for how long.

1.5 hours is how long. That's a long time to be walking uphill even if "hills are our friends". Johnny's new phrase of the day on this particular day was "negativity breeds failure" and as such I had to be positive. Part of this 1.5 hour hill was a narrow steep forest path. It was very boggy in parts and we really could have done with some gaiters. You definitely would ruin your footwear if you wore runners on this trek. I had bought a set of walking poles only that week and would you believe it, I forgot to bring them with me. They would have been ideal for this really boggy bit. At one point, Johnny had to throw back his pole to me to use to steady myself to get over some rocks. The bog was deeper than our ankles so we tried as much as possible to climb over the rocks where possible. This section was definitely the most tricky to maneuver through over all the sections of the Way. Be prepared for it. I couldn't imagine what it would be like in the rain.



When it leveled out we stopped for lunch by a quite road overlooking a hill (I don't know which one). It was so peaceful and a popular lunch stop but the bits of rubbish around. I don't understand how people can leave rubbish in the countryside. It's disgraceful. After lunch we began the descent. There were some new sleepers, which gently sloped downhill. At the bottom, we met a quiet road which we only had to walk a couple of minutes on before entering another wood. A hostel is just 1.5 km further down that road. Once in the forest you ascend again for about 1km before descending down with amazing views of Lugnaquilla. This was the first time we have had a clear view of the "Lug", which we hope to climb on Good Friday (weather permitting). It's definitely going to be a tough one and we will have to be careful of not going over one of the two steep sheer drops. After descending to meet the road, we crossed the Ow river via the "Iron Bridge". We turned left and continued on the road until we came to our car.



Although not a relatively long trek, this one is tiring. It took us approximately 3.5hrs to complete. It is predominantly uphill and mostly through forest. The positives are that the forest shelters you from any wind so you are not exposed and the views of lugnaquilla make it worth the climb. If you have gaiters, wear them at the boggy bits and also bring poles if you have them. It's hard to believe that we have the tougher part of the way completed and that we only have two stages left. Looking forward to our navigation skills walk next Sunday.

Friday, 8 April 2011

The Wicklow Way - Glendalough to Glenmalure (Stage 4)

Distance:    16km
Terrain:      Mainly forest tracks and mountain paths. No road walking
Summary:  A predominantly woodland walk, mountain views and a waterfall better than powerscourt 
                 (my opinion)   

I am going to start the night before on this one. Johnny, do you know the way to Glenmalure? (Fiona). Yes (Johnny). Do I need to get directions on the Internet just in case? (Fiona). No, just bring the Sat Nav (Johnny). The following morning we set off in two cars as usual, one to leave at the start and finish point. As I didn't know how to get to Glenmalure, I followed Johnny; The person who knew how to get there and also the person with the Sat Nav. I started to get a little concerned after a good while of driving in the countryside when Johnny took a turn that effectively was tracking back on himself. A couple of hundred yards on, he turned back around. I should have know. Johnny does have a track record of getting lost. Those of you who were at Katrina and Pauls wedding in Belfast will recall the 2 hour bank machine trip. Need I say more. After a stop in the next village, I quickly ascertained that Johhny was driving the route that he thought was correct and actually had paused the Sat Nav. As soon as I turned the Sat Nav back on, we got back on track and were soon in Glenmalure. If you have never been to Glenmalure I suggest a drive to it on a nice day. Stunning does not do it justice. I am just sorry that I didn't take any pictures. Was a bit preoccupied after driving around for ages that forgot to take some. Will defo get some next week when we do the next trek. After leaving the car in Glenmalure, we drove to Glendalough to start the walk.

The walk at Glendalough started off where we finished before. We walked through the visitor centre and onto a path called green road which runs along the lower lake. You follow this road until you reach the Poulanass waterfall. Many walks in Glendalough walk up past the waterfall and this one is no different. You climb steeply up the steps next to the waterfall and turn left at the top. Although its not too long in distance, that steep climb takes it out of me every time. I don't think I will ever get up that waterfall without feeling like I'm going to collapse. The left turn at the top was new to us as we regularly walk in that area but usually turn right. We were really looking forward to see what this new path had to offer. After walking for a while, we noticed, although we hadn't realised it, that we had been gradually gaining height. This was my type of walk. We were walking uphill but it was gradual. We were getting the benefit of hills but they were not trying to kill us. We had some lovely views of the upper lake during this part of the walk (above photo). The next part of the walk was a 3km hill. Although again a gradual hill, after 3 km's you can really feel it. We passed a girl walking on her own, carrying a full rucksack, tent, sleeping bag, etc. I really don't know how she made it up that 3km hill. Actually just thinking; I hope she did !!!!!!!!!!!!!


At the top you reach the saddle between Lugduff and Mullacor mountains. The book also told us that we could see Fraughan Rock Glen and Lugnaquilla (the highest mountain outside Kerry). To be honest, we couldn't tell which was which. If you want to distinguish them you will need to bring a compass to ascertain where south, north, east and west is. At this point, Johhny told me to do something funny for a picture. So I lay down on the sleepers. Couldn't think of anything else. Probably looks stupid but I like the picture. We followed the sleepers and the path started to descend. The sleepers ended and it got a bit boggy but nothing too impassable.


We continued to follow the track and took the opposite photo. You might wonder why this is the first photo of the two of us on any of the below treks. I have only just figured out how to work the timer. Got really excited about it. After this we had to negotiate our way down though a steep wooded trail. The rocks and tree roots were wet and slippy. I actually found this the hardest part of the trail. We continued to follow the forest track and came across another forest shelter, similar to the one we encountered on a previous trek and again in excellent condition. A short walk further brought us back to the road at Glenmalure and to the car within a few minutes.


Yet again another lovely day and hike. For me, this hike was the least strenuous of all the ones we have done so far. As per previous hikes, hiking boots are recommended. Required more for the descent rather than the ascent, as the ascent is mainly on woodland walkways. A rain jacket and hat, also a must because it is very exposed at the saddle between the two mountains. One point to note on this hike is that there is no natural place to stop for lunch. We stopped at the saddle set back from the main walkway. Although slightly sheltered, still quite exposed and windy. All in all another great, enjoyable day.


Just forgot to mention the views of the opposite waterfall on the descent. The photo doesn't do it justice at all. The waterfall was bigger and more beautiful than powerscourt and the views were free. I could see some people in the distance down at it's base so I have to figure out where it is and get a close up view. If anyone knows, please let me know.

That's all for now. We are doing stage 5 tomorrow so will update next week. Going to bring my shorts this time. Weather is meant to be gorgeous.

Sunday, 3 April 2011

The Wicklow Way - Oldbridge to Glendalough (Stage 3)

Distance - 10km (We walked the 10km and then walked the route in reverse to make an overall hike of 20km)
Terrain - Road walking, then forest track and some mountain paths
Summary - Short and not too demanding section (a bit more difficult on the way back). Brings you right to the Monastic City in  Glendalough which is worth a wander around.

We did this hike a couple of weeks ago. Again we were blessed with lovely weather. As this part of the Wicklow way is just 10km, we decided to bring just one car and park it at the beginning of the walk outside Roundwood. We walked the 10km and then turned around and walked back to make it a longer walk. The 10km walk to Glendalough isn't too difficult and is a good walk for beginners.

The first 4 km's of the walk is road walking. However it is quiet country roads and although there are some hills, once you don't try run up them, they are easy enough going. After walking for about 45 minutes, we left the road to begin the cross country part of the walk.


 After walking up a lane, turning left and following Paddock Hill gently upwards, we came across a small hut called Brusher Gap Hut. This purpose of the hut seemed to be an over night shelter. It was really clean and had a tap, a place to make a fire and a sweeping brush. There was a small box that had a visitors book inside it. We signed it and sat for a few minutes taking in the gorgeous view that it overlooked. This was the first time that either of us had seen one of these huts when out hiking. They are a really good idea and hopefully the intention is to erect some more along the Wicklow Way and other long walking routes in Ireland.



Not far after the hut, the path starts to descend. Initially I was delighted that we were going downhill because most of our hikes so far have been more uphill than downhill. However that soon wore off when the realisation hit that all this downhill would be uphill on the way back. We walked down a very steep hill that took about 10-12 mins to walk down. I began to get really worried about if I would make it back up on the way back. Johnny kept telling me not to be so negative because if I was negative it would be harder to climb back up on the way back. After the steep hill we crossed a road and entered a wood. Again the wood was predominantly downhill leading us right to the visitor centre in Glendalough.



Johnny and I have done many hikes in Glendalough but in all that time we have never walked around the Monastic City. Although we could have done a guided tour we were conscious that we had to walk the 10km back to the car so we ate our lunch at a picnic area in the visitor centre and spent about 15 minutes just wandering around the Monastic City.Even though it was March, there were loads of tourists there.











We then turned around and walked back the way we came. Definitely tougher as a lot of the way is uphill. After walking up through the forest and through some flat land we came to the hill that I had been dreading since walking down it earlier. We paused at the bottom and then began. Through a lot of huffing and puffing we made it up it in 12 minutes without stopping. I couldn't believe it. I was sure I would have to stop at least two or three times. I had learned my lesson. Don't be negative before you even try because you might actually be able to do it. We followed the route back that we had travelled earlier and reached the car where we had parked it earlier that morning. I can't tell you exactly how long it took us because we forgot to time it. Giving a guess, it was about four and a half hours.


This walk can be done in two ways. 10km one way or 20km there and back. I'd suggest the 10km if you want a long walk but nothing too strenuous. The 20km is definitely the one to do if you are looking to stretch yourself and take in a couple of steep hills. As per the previous walks, you do need hiking boots for some parts of this walk but also bring a pair of runners in your backpack for the road walking (Especially if you are doing the 20km; your feet will appreciate them at the 4km at the end). Wait until Glendalough to eat lunch and definitely take a few minutes to walk around the Monastic City.